EPISODE VI

No One is Safe

Forgive the Star Wars reference, korean tv has been playing phantom menace and clone wars on a rotational basis as of late. The title refers to the clubbing scene here in Korea, particularly in one area called Itaewon. Should you ever do a wikipedia search of Itaewon, it speaks of the closeness to the US army base. Itaewon is the "western town" of Korea, somewhat like chinatown back home. Here you'll find all the western restaurants, KFC, Mcdonalds, etc. as well as Americans, specifically GI's. Due to the proximity of the army base, you'll find quite a few army regulars perusing the local shops. It's when the clubbing scene starts things seem to get out of hand. Locally, night clubs will open around 10pm and close around 6am, liquor is served throughout the night. At most places the party heats up around 1am, after the American military curfew. Prior to that time, inside the clubs there exists a tense atmosphere, hence the title of this blog.

I have met a few military personnel, spoke at length while enjoying a hockey game at a local bar, nice conversations were had. However, at a club atmosphere, there's an incredible hulk type of vibe, Bruce Banner will morph into the hulk when crossed. The tension is thick, it feels that at any given moment some large brawl will break out. Additionally, military folk are huge comparative to local Koreans. I would say that the average Korean male is about 5'6, 150 lbs, while the average american military personnel, 6'0, 210lbs. They dwarf the local population. Several hours ago, I went to a night spot in Itaewon heavily frequented by the miltary. I did not feel comfortable. I felt as though if I stepped on someone shoes I'd be in a world of hurt. The tension was unmistakable until 1am when the curfew was in place. Even after that time, military police would come through the club to look for stragglers. These people look serious, ready to put the hurt on if someone so much as looked at them cross-eyed. For this reason, in most of Seoul, the military is not allowed entry at any time save for Itaewon. There have been many instances of fights breaking out and club owners do not want to have police come in during peak hours looking for rogue soldiers. For these reasons, I have placed a personal ban on night clubs, at least not attending one prior to 1am. I do not dislike the military, but this evening there were times when I was very worried. I'd like to think that I'm a tough guy and I'll hang in to the end, but if something happened here I'd probably bolt for the door. I don't want to find what military training looks like in practice, I'd rather read it in the newspaper the next day.